Installing the flue pipe, part 2

With all that beautiful chrome and black metal I can’t resist a second post about yesterday’s stove pipe installation.

Yesterday I mentioned the roof penetration so today I thought I would break it down in detail. Like I said before your ideal situation is a roofing panel spaced directly over a rafter bay directly over exactly where you want the stove (that will provide safe clearances) To my mind the easiest way to do this is to use 16 inch roofing panels oriented the opposite direction you see in my house on either a gable or a shed roof and to allow for an overhang at either end that will line the panels up on the rafter bays.

In our case that wasn’t possible because our roofing is oriented longitudinally on the house so the best we could do working sideways from the edge of the eave was to keep the hole inside of a single 16” metal panel but still had the boot overlapping the ridge. (Note: if I ran the pipe straight out the top of the stove I could’ve hit the next panel and avoided this).

The important thing to note here is that the panels are oriented so the boot bends up on the side of the panel ridge that is continuous metal which we accomplished by starting our roofing at the opposite side of the roof that the stove pipe would be on. If the metal roofing was installed in the opposite direction and this roof boot would lap up on the side where the panels click together it would create a water ingress point where water could back up and start flowing over the internal ridge and into the roof assembly right at where the roofing membrane is also compromised.

If for some reason you have to bend a boot over a ridge on the click-together side or your penetration hole cuts across a metal ridge (ours doesn’t) you MUST caulk the click-side of the seam all the way to ridge of the house (and under the ridge flashing) or it WILL leak.

I clean the metal with soap, water, dry towel, alcohol, paper towel, then mask off and caulk with Vulkem.

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